Lonely Planet Copenhagen Encounter Review

Lonely Planet Copenhagen Encounter
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The positive thing about this book is its compact size, which makes it easy to tote around with you all day. It's got all the info you need to quickly make new plans as you go from one place to another--however, there are some inaccuracies, as I describe below. Like the other city "encounter" books, it is organized by neighborhood, with listings for "see, shop, eat, drink and play." The beginning of each section has a neighborhood map with the location of all the listings. There is also bigger pull-out map in the back of the book.
One negative thing is the same as what I found for the Stockholm encounter book: the maps are bad. You can pick up a much better map for free in a tourist information shop. (We found *that* map actually quite useful - it has a couple of suggested walking routes that guide you through most of the major sights).
The main reason for my low rating, though, concerns the description of the Slotsholmen neighborhood. We needed something to do for a few hours on our last day, and we hadn't been to this area yet. According to the book's description, this area would provide a "treasure trove" of "quirky delights" and would be "a beguiling place to walk around, with numerous interesting nooks and crannies to explore, not least a beautiful 'hidden' garden." Now, doesn't that sound like a great place to pass a few hours?! Would that it had been so! The whole island is made up of huge sprawling buildings with a few inner courtyards. Walking through it, it is nothing but imposing concrete and stone and bare pavement exposed to the hot sun with very little shade or greenery. (It didn't help that we were there during a bit of a heat wave; perhaps in different weather, it would have been more enjoyable.) The so-called "hidden garden" is quite an ordinary small, formal garden with a fountain in the middle, and very little shade or seating. To find it, you have to make your way around the surrounding sprawling buildings, a bit like a rat in a concrete maze. It is not worth the effort. In addition, the parliament ("Folktinget") is in this area, and according to the book, there are free tours daily at 2:00. We walked all around the building and and found no way in (nothing but doors with coded entry) and no mention of any tours. It may be that we somehow missed a major entrance, but certainly the book provided no help, and it's quite frustrating trying to make your way through this area. The single enjoyable thing about our time in this neighborhood was visiting the super-modern Royal Library - the "Black Diamond" - which is very nice if you're into architecture. To describe this area as "quirky," and "beguiling," with "interesting nooks and crannies" is incomprehensible to me. It makes me wonder if the author's sense of "beguilement" wasn't perhaps chemically induced (maybe a quick trip to Christiania beforehand...?). :) I should perhaps note that we did *not* go to any of the museums in this area, as it was Monday and they were closed, but the description of the neighborhood led us to believe that just walking around the area would be pleasant in itself.
I also found the description of getting to the Louisiana museum to be not as helpful as it could be. The museum is a 36 minute train ride from central station, and then, according to the book, "10 minutes on foot." It would be more helpful if this were described in terms of *distance*, since people walk at different paces. For us, it was more like a 15-20 minute walk. This walk is along a fairly busy road, with very little shade. Because the museum is described as being in an "affluent coastal town," we imagined a more pleasant walk. There is nothing at all to see along the way, and just one little nondescript cafe. Having said all of the this, the museum itself is *lovely*. It is right by the sea, and you can walk in and out of the museum at will in various places, including in the cafe, where you can take your food outdoors and sit with a view of the water. I would judge the experience as "worth it", but it's a close call. (Again, our experience was probably colored by experiencing a rare Danish heat wave, and the fact that the train we took had neither air conditioning nor windows that opened. To follow this with a longish dusty walk along a street with heavy traffic was not great).

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What Will Your Copenhagen Encounter Be?Getting hygge (cozy) with the locals at a candlelit caféTaking a late-night trip to the illuminations at TivoliBeing dazzled by the crown jewels at fairy-tale royal palace Rosenborg SlotSavoring Faroese langoustines in an emulsion of oysters at 'World's Best Restaurant" NormaAdmiring picture-postcard streets on a canal tour of colorful NyhavnBasking in the Scandinavian sunshine on the beach at Amager StrandparkDiscover Twice The City In Half The TimeFull-color pull-out map and detailed neighborhood maps for easy navigationOur expert author recommends the very best sights, restaurants, shops and entertainmentUnique Snapshots chapter helps you get under the skin of the cityLocals divulge Copenhagen's secrets: top tips for foodies from Rene Redzepi, head chef at Noma, and the low-down on the Copenhaged look from an award-winning fashion designer

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